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My adventure began rather innocuously one morning last December in
Bangkok where my husband and I were soaking up a bit of luxury.
We had just spent the previous week in Cambodia, and were heading
to Burma next for a couple of weeks. So there I was, stuffing
myself with a full Western breakfast, leisurely perusing the
Bangkok Post when an article caught my eye. It talked about an
elephant education program run by an amazing Thai woman named Lek
who was rescuing abused elephants. It was open to volunteers who
wanted to get close to these amazing animals and learn to live
with and care for them as mahouts do. My interest was piqued
immediately as I've been fascinated by elephants ever since the
first time I saw them at the zoo as a child. And so it began, out
of chance, into an experience of a lifetime. I applied via their
website when I got back home and then waited on pins and needles
to find out if I'd been accepted. The acceptance came at the last
minute, leaving me with barely enough time to scramble around for
a ticket to Chiang Mai, and off I went.
My adventure came in three parts: Visiting the rescued
elephants in the mountain, going on the Jumbo Express, and falling
in love with GingMai.
The first few days were spent in the mountain, getting familiar
with elephants and helping to administer treatments for various
wounds from which each elephant was in recovery. We met the
elephants at a river a couple hours north of ChiangMai where we
bathed them (involving bristly brushes and getting very very wet),
then rode them back up to the camp in the mountain. The ride was
several hours and it's amazing how comfortable I got sitting on an
elephant's head. My elephant during my stay at the camp was
MaeKieu, a sweet gentle pregnant sow. Each morning
I would accompany her mahout into the jungle to find her after
she had spent the night grazing freely. It sounds like a hopeless
task, but the mahouts know their animal well and know likely
places to look. I lucked out and was able to find my elephant
each time after only a couple hours hike, but others weren't so
lucky and were led on wild chases (with the elephant in the
lead) through banana fields and rivers for up to six hours! The
camp itself was hospitable but primitive. You could always tell
when the elephants were playing in the creek by the color of the
water at our end. What an amazing introduction to these great
animals. They were very curious and friendly, not to mention
always on the lookout for food. Much of our day to day activity
was conducted under a wandering trunk leaving slime in its wake
and we very quickly got used to all things elephant. The next part
of my adventure was the Jumbo Express, a mobile clinic
administering to tribal villages along a river near the Burma
border, vaccinating and treating elephants, livestock (water
buffalo, cattle, pigs, chickens, and ducks to name a few), dogs,
and villagers. We traveled via a bamboo raft which was half
sunken with our weight, spending a total of about nine hours on
the river during our 2 night/3 day trip. Along the way, I got
quite adept at administering rabies injections for dogs, drops and
injections to tiny chicks and full grown chickens for Newcastle
disease, as well as hiding de-worming medicine in lumps of
tamarind for the elephants; and after falling in the river a few
times, finally managed to get the hang of steering a 700+lb bamboo
raft in rapid current.
At the end of Jumbo Express, I was dropped at a farm in a tiny
village called Sanpayang, about an hour north of ChiangMai. There
I fell in love; the object of my affections was a little
three-month old orphaned boy named GingMai (Little Tree). He lost
his mother tragically when he was three days old and went through
incredible terror before finally being taken in by Lek; you can
read his story here (http://thaifocus.com/elephant/news/gingmai/index.htm).
My days and nights with him were amazing; he required 24/7 care.
There was an average of 3-4 volunteers at the farm on any given
day all focusing on his care and well being. We did shifts at
night feeding him, making him feel safe when he wakes in the night
after a nightmare, and cleaning up after his pee or poo. The days
were filled with the same, plus work around the farm supporting
his care: gathering and chopping wood for the fire to boil water
for milk and sterilization, keeping the fire going all day/night,
washing and sterilizing his 2L bottles (he consumed about 10
bottles per day) and utensils used for making milk, making sure he
gets his supplementary vitamins and minerals, treating his healing
wounds, cooking and cleaning,...the list goes on, and the hours
fly by. It gets exhausting, both physically and mentally thanks to
the average of four hours sleep per night and the average daytime
temperature of 36C degrees, but it was so worth the time I got to
spend with the little boy. He was still just a baby, learning to
manage his little trunk and exploring his surroundings, seeking
relief from teething by gumming bamboo poles, clean laundry, my
knee, shoulder, hand, just about anything he could get his mouth
on. Needless to say I had difficulty leaving him when it was time
for me to come home, and ended up extending by another week. Now
I'm home and after a week of restlessness, I'm finally sleeping
through the night; the first week I kept jumping out of bed at 3am
thinking I'd overslept for my shift with GingMai. I'm sleeping
better these days but dreaming of elephants, one little guy in
particular. It was one of the best experiences I've ever had, and
I'm counting the days until I go back. Check out the Volunteer
section of this website for (http://thaifocus.com/elephant/volunteer.htm)
for details on the program; find out how you can help
(http://thaifocus.com/elephant/enp_uhlp.htm),
financially or otherwise; take part in the program if you have a
week or two to spare. I guarantee you it'll be one of the best
things you do.
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